Here's the bottom line up front: Shetland wool is made to be used for the traditional knitted garments like lace and hap shawls and Fair Isle sweaters (and other knitted garments). This is what made Shetland wool famous! Fine, crimpy, soft wool - that is the Shetland legacy and has been for hundreds of years. There is no comparison and there is no better way to show off this legacy than in an article such as this (or Fair Isle).
I'll start from the beginning. On March 21, I started a Shetland hap shawl out of some mid-heavy weight handspun. The yarn is sport/DK/worsted wt and out of less crimpy, but still soft Shetland wool. I was so itching to start a hap (because I had the pattern) and I didn't have all of the colors I wanted in handspun fingering wt. At least not in the amounts I would have needed. So, why not grab what I have on hand (the heavier wts) and make one from that? At least that is what I thought.
Lambing was hot and heavy at that time, but knitting the mostly mindless garter stitch center was a good down time project and the "shawl" quickly progressed. Picked up the borders (working borders out method) and started knitting the feather and fan lace part either the end of March or the beginning of April. Then the fingering wt millspun yarns arrived . . .
At that point, I was getting ready for the Fiber Event. I washed up skeins and skeins of the millspun yarn, getting ready, but I couldn't help myself! I cast on with some of the millspun and worked on a garter center for another shawl while at FE. Since the hvy wt handspun was literally getting heavy in the hand to knit with, I put it down and worked on the fingering wt shawl. I have gotten this far with the heavier wt yarns:
UTS Shetland hvy wt handspun "hap"
I'll be finishing this soon, since I'm more than halfway through the color changes, but I don't know if I'll put the lace edging on it or not. It will be more like a blanket for the couch, and not a shawl so it really doesn't need the lace. I like it, but Shetland wool just doesn't fit for a shawl in this yarn weight - it is simply too heavy. Yarn spun this weight begs to be made into blankets, not shawls or even sweaters. Maybe boot socks.
UTS Shetland millspun hap shawl - unblocked. About 43" square. 18" ruler shown.
UTS Shetland millspun hap shawl - washed and blocking with lace wires. About 54" square.
Here are the two haps, side by side. As you can see, the pattern really opens up when the hap is washed and blocked. The fingering wt hap was even more scrunched up than the hvy wt due to the better quality wool/yarn (finer and more crimp).
Yes, the colors used for both are very similar. The center square for the handspun is out of a lt-med grey whereas the millspun square is out of the off white/lt grey (it has black fibers in it made from light grey fleeces, and no, they aren't coarse black fibers at all!).
Since the first hap blanket isn't finished, I can't give all the comparison details yet but will give you this bit of info. The center garter square of the handspun hap weighed in at around 8.9 oz, minus the needle weight. The fingering wt square clocked in at 4.4 oz. The final weight of the fingering wt hap is 13 oz (which is about right, a shawl this size should be around a pound or less). I'm betting the handspun is going to be around double that (unless I don't put the edging on).
And, oh, I modified the lace edging to make it "mine"! I wanted a bit more of an airy look to the edge so incorporated a double row of yarn overs instead of a single row. I think it looks good!
I've already started working on a millspun black half hap (creating the pattern in my head as I go based on this pattern) and thinking what colors I need for a handspun version (in a fingering wt, don't know what colors yet though I think I have enough spun up). I've only got so many #6 needles . . .
